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Hole Saws


Street Solutions UK supplies a full range of hole saws to construction workers, joiners, engineers, fabricators, and maintenance teams across the UK. Our products are used for cutting, grinding, sanding, and surface preparation on concrete, metal, wood, and masonry, and all meet PUWER, the Abrasive Wheels Regulations, and relevant EN standards.
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Street Solutions UK is a trusted UK supplier of hole saws and related abrasive wheels and sanding products. We pride ourselves on competitive pricing, fast UK delivery, and expert product support. Whether you're a sole trader or a national contractor, our team is ready to help you find the right solution. All products comply with PUWER, the Abrasive Wheels Regulations, and relevant EN standards. Browse the full range online or contact us for a trade quote.

Bi-metal, and what it buys you

These are bi-metal holesaws, supplied as 9 piece and 10 piece kits.

Bi-metal means two metals welded together: a hard high-speed steel cutting edge on a flexible alloy steel body. The hard edge holds its sharpness through metal and the flexible body absorbs shock rather than shattering. A single-material holesaw either blunts quickly or snaps a tooth off, and bi-metal is what avoids both.

They handle timber, plasterboard, plastics, and sheet metal and thin steel sections. For masonry, concrete or tile you need a diamond core bit instead; a bi-metal saw will not cut it and the teeth will go in seconds.

Why a kit rather than singles

Holesaws are bought for a specific hole and then needed for a different one a fortnight later. A kit covers the common diameters in one box with the arbor and pilot drill already matched to the saws.

The alternative is a drawer of individual saws that do not share an arbor. That is how most vans end up with four holesaws and no way to mount any of them.

How to cut a clean hole

The pilot drill does more than locate the hole: it holds the saw on centre through the whole cut. Set it so it protrudes far enough to bite before the teeth make contact.

Run slowly. Holesaws want low speed and steady pressure, and the bigger the diameter, the slower it should turn. Running fast generates heat, and heat is what takes the temper out of the teeth. If the saw is smoking or squealing, it is too fast or you are pushing too hard.

Back off periodically to clear the swarf. A saw packed with waste stops cutting and starts rubbing.

Getting the slug out

The offcut jams in the saw, and levering it out with a screwdriver through the slots bends the body.

Most kits include a plate or ejector spring to push it clear. Where they do not, tap the slug out through the back of the saw rather than prying from the front. A distorted holesaw will never cut a round hole again.

In sheet metal, keep a little cutting fluid on the teeth. It costs nothing, cuts the heat and roughly doubles the life of the saw.

For core drilling in masonry and concrete, see diamond core drills.


Frequently Asked Questions

What training is needed to use abrasive wheels? +

The Provision and Use of Work Equipment Regulations (PUWER) and the Abrasive Wheels Regulations require that persons who mount or use abrasive wheels have received adequate training and instruction.

What is the difference between a cutting disc and a grinding wheel? +

Cutting discs are thin (1–3mm) and designed for slicing through materials quickly with minimal material removal. Grinding wheels are thicker and used for removing material, shaping, and surface finishing.

How do I choose the right abrasive grit? +

Lower grit numbers (e.g. 40–80) remove material quickly but leave a rougher finish. Higher grits (e.g. 120–400) produce a finer finish with less material removal. Choose the grit based on the material and the required finish.

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